If you use Public Lands, be it for climbing, hiking, camping, 4-wheeling or whatever, arm yourself with information. Visit the sites below to get an idea of the inner workings of the various groups that monitor our activities.

Visit the Access Fund	Visit the Audubon Society
Visit the U.S. Forest Service	Visit the Bureau of Land Management

What can I do?

Respect the past. Obey any restrictions in place that protect culture or wildlife:
Appropriate restrictions can include prohibition of climbing around Indian rock art , pioneer inscriptions, and on certain formations during raptor nesting season.

Keep a low profile, not only at the crags, but in the campgrounds:
These lands and campgrounds are enjoyed by many diverse groups. Everyone is there to enjoy the surroundings. Maybe Grandma doesn't like Metallica at 2 AM. Let her have a good time too.

Respect Private Lands and Property:
Travel around private lands to get to your climb. Always close livestock gates after entering grazing lands. Do not climb on private property.

Practice "Leave No Trace" Impact:
Pick up litter. Remove human waste. Use impacted sites. Do not make new fire rings.

Dispose of litter and human waste properly:
Use toilets when provided. When car camping, use a container in your vehicle. If you must load the environment, choose a spot at least 50 meters from any water source, be it a river, pond or stream.  Dig a hole 6 inches (15 cm) deep, and bury your waste in it, sans toilet paper. This should be packed out with you when you leave. Use a zip-lock or plastic bag.

Use Existing Trails: 
Most areas have a network of trails already in place. Do not trample vegetation or cut switchbacks.

Use your best judgment when placing fixed anchors:
Anchors should be camouflaged. No crappy anchors of beer cans and twine. Use bomber chain anchors when possible. Retreat slings should be rock colored if possible. Do not place any anchors on boulders. When in doubt, ask about local ethics. Power drills are still illegal in wilderness areas. Adjust your penetration accordingly.

Park in designated spots:
Use turnouts when possible. No off-road motoring trying to get closer to the crags. Set up a carpool with your camp mates.

Band together to work on access issues before them become issues:
Contact the local land managers for your area. Plan a clean-up day at your local crag. Join the Access Fund.

Bouldering and Access on the Volcanic Tableland
Local Activist Mick Ryan of  RockFax Guidebooks writes:

Climbers have been exploring the Volcanic Tableland for many years but it is only since the increase in the popularity of the bouldering that the area has become popular.

The Tableland also has very special qualities; fragile desert flora and fauna, a cultural heritage that stretches back 10,000 years, global geological uniqueness, and views of the Sierra and White Mountains that refresh, stimulate, and are just plain good to look at.

There are many groups of people that use the Tablelands; the local Paiutes, mountain bikers, bird watchers, scientists, off-highway vehicle users, and hikers, as well as climbers.

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) have the difficult job of conserving the resources that make the area special, and at the same time they have to make sure that people of many diverse interests and viewpoints, have freedom of access to enjoy the Tablelands. Their management must also account for the expected recreational pressure on the east side of the Sierra due to the projected population growth in Southern California.

Some user groups are actively involved in conservation projects on the Tableland with the BLM, for example the Audubon Society and the Off-Highway Vehicle community.

AS CLIMBERS HOW DO WE FIT INTO THE PICTURE?

Our continued access and freedoms depends on our attitudes, actions and sense of responsibility.

We have to share the Tablelands with everyone else. We have to leave it in a pristine state for future generations to enjoy. Climbers want the opportunity to enjoy it now and forever. If we want to avoid restrictions and formal management plans we have to be pro-active in our approach to access issues and responsible behavior.

WHAT CAN WE DO?

On a personal level, follow these guidelines;

- Access the Happy Boulders by the Chalk Bluff Road only.

- Only park on disturbed, impacted sites along the Chalk Bluff Road.

- Do not drive off established roads onto the Tableland. In desert environments dormant vegetation which appears to be dead is actually alive and physical scars from vehicles will remain visible for years.

- Walk on single-track trails that currently exist in the bouldering areas. This reduces trail proliferation and physical impacts to the area. Local climbers are engaged in maintaining these single-track trails.

- Remove any trash or debris left by others: be it fishermen, partiers, or climbers.

- Avoid disturbing wildlife, especially birds. Don't climb on boulders that have raptor 'whitewash'.

- Do not climb on boulders that have rock art. If you do discover any artifacts please leave them where you found them.

- Do not use a wire brush to clean holds.

- Use chalk sparingly and then soft-brush holds after use.

SELF-REGULATION

We also have to be self-policing and self-regulating. Local climbers have volunteered to be climber-rangers. They will be talking to climbers bouldering on the Volcanic Tableland about access issues and also leading practical efforts; trail building, trash clean-ups, organizing chalk clean-up days and liaising with the BLM. Please give them your support.

SELF-EXPLORATION

You can climb almost anywhere on the Tablelands (apart from boulders with rock art or raptor nests). But not all areas will be advertised (i.e., directions given) in guidebooks or magazines.

The areas that will be 'advertised' are the areas accessed by Chalk Bluff Road; the Happy Boulders, the Sad Boulders, the Sacred Boulders, Pleasant Valley Boulders and the Chalk Bluff Road Boulders.

Areas deep inside the Tablelands and the Wilderness Study Areas will not be advertised. You can still climb at these areas but will have to explore yourself. Remember: Do not drive off established roads.

If you have a website, write for magazines or guidebooks please do not publish directions to these areas.

CAMPING

Please avoid camping on the Volcanic Tableland. With a large influx of climbers this could cause problems. Too many people or even a small group in a fragile area can cause irreparable damage to cultural sites. Soils with archaeological remains could be dispersed or contaminated and the knowledge they contain lost forever.

Please camp at Pleasant Valley campground, the Pinion site, the BLM Horton Creek campground or at the Buttermilk (ask at Wilson's for accommodation options).

REMEMBER HUECO

Access at Hueco Tanks State Park, one of the premier bouldering areas in the world, has been severely restricted. We are trying to avoid such a situation at the boulders around Bishop and the rest of the East Side of the Sierra.

With every climbers' co-operation this can be achieved.

Mick Ryan, Rockfax guidebooks, Bishop, California.

The BLM and local climbers appreciate your feedback. Write to the BLM at The BLM, Bishop Resource Area,
785 N.Main St. Suite E, Bishop, CA 93514 or Email me at Rockfax@yahoo.com

If you've any new problems or significant repeats to report, email Mick Ryan at RockFax@yahoo.com or call 760/873-9147

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