Notes on the route:
Perhaps the grandest of the "Big Trade Routes" Mescalito features great location, good rock, and plenty of pitches for all. When we did the route we had a 3 man team and spent 3 nights on the wall. I think we fixed the first 4 pitches and then did one long haul from the Alcove. I remember hearing about the Seagull pitch as being expando and "once you go past the Seagull, you can't get back down". BS on both of those. The Seagull is nothing to worry about. The rivet ladders have pretty good rivets but are spaced really far apart. Hugh Burton is a huge man and used this to his advantage while placing these on the FA. If you are vertically challenged, take an equilizer (not cheater) stick to get you over the wide ones. The Bismark bivy is one of the finest anywhere. It is flat, long, level, and pretty wide. We rolled onto the Bismark with enough time to fix the easy A1 corner to the top of the Biz. The top 12 feet is awkward and off-width so beware. Having this pitch fixed will give you some extra time to sleep-in and still top out the next day. Topping out on the summit is clean and fairly straight forward. Those Canadian boys (Burton/Sutton) sure did nice work on this one.
Info provided by: Russ Walling