Born Under A Bad Sign, El Capitan
Notes on the route:
This is a really good route and has not seen much traffic, like maybe 4 or 5 ascents. We fixed to Lady Bug Ledge and then hauled to that point. This ledge will catch dripping water from the top of the wall even in the summer.
Most of the rock is pretty solid and really bad falls are abundant. The pitch getting up the Popcorn Flake is very technical small heads that are expando, with a nice ramp fall if you zipper it. Right at the Flake there are some drilled holes (by the FA party) to get you to the anchor. I tried to nail the flake on our first attempt (no holes were listed on our topo and they are hard to see) and declared it suicide. I guess Bill Price did to, as he drilled around it during the first ascent. The Popcorn flake is quite loose and although not very long, is very technical, but has a nice clean fall.
The Devils Brow pitch has drilled holes on the wall under the roof, but since Walt did not see those, he nailed a crack in the actual roof. Nice work and plenty spectacular. The Brow bivy actually will drip water from above and I got soaked. At the anchor under the Brow , a Captain America doll hangs by a #1 copperhead. The Brow pitch is plenty hard, thin and loose. After the first ascent Bill Price said of this pitch "It might be the hardest thing I've done", pretty big words from a guy who not only did the second ascent of the Sea of Dreams, but led every pitch.
After you turn the lip, it eases to about 13 rurps in a row, a hook or 2, and then some down nailing off of a tied-off blade. Bring big hooks and rurps for the down nailing. The second on this pitch will be in great peril if this blade pulls while he is cleaning. After this pitch it is way easy to the top, and you are on Eagles Way. Enjoy.
(info provided by Russ Walling)