Tangerine Trip VI, 5.9 A2+

First ascent:
Charlie Porter and Jean-Paul de St. Croix,1973

Notes on the route:
The "Trip" as it is known is one of the best "get your feet wet" routes on the Captain. It is steep, relatively clean, and has the good fortune of being closed part of the year due to the "Yosemite Chickens" that nest in the area. These factors make what would be an otherwise crowded experience a bit less hectic. The Trip is also a favorite route for parties trying to get in a late season wall. The steepness gives pretty good protection from the elements, and the shortness is welcomed if a big storm rolls in. If you turn back the clock a few years, the Trip has also been a place of disaster. The most famous one being Chris Robbins, who got the chop while jugging fixed lines on an early ascent. Numerous people have had a major fray problem while jugging fixed lines on this route. The downward sloping roof of pitch #4 has claimed its victim also, not the leader, but the follower. The angle of the rope on this pitch just makes Jumars and the like pop clean off the rope, and that's what happened to Carol. Had she been tied in to the end of the rope, maybe she would be around to tell you about her epic....but she wasn't tied in, and subsequently went straight to the deck. Enjoy, and be careful. Russ Walling

Ps: Eric Coomer, who provided the info for this route, has also taken it upon himself to replace the 25 year old anchors on this route. He has added numerous 3/8" bolts to the belays and fixed other atrocities on his way by. For this, he deserves not only your thanks, but your liquor also. If you see him, buy him a beer 'fer cryin' out loud". Thanks Eric!

The Nuts and Bolts:
Pitches #3 and #4 can get real wet, even a few days after a storm.

Pitch #5: Probably the coolest on the route. Beg for this one, as it's worth it.

Pitch #6: Bolt ladder with some hooks for spice.

Pitch #7: Cool corner!

Pitch #8: Hooks to bolts and then a bit of free.

Pitch #10: The 10b is cool and would be 4 stars if it was near the road. Hand size.

Pitch #11/#12: Run these two pitches together. They go quick. Pitch #14: A real sharp edge awaits here. Use tape on the edge or rig an "over/under" sling and Prussik set up to save the rope and your life.

Pitch #15: Few pieces of gear to a long ladder.

Pitch #17/#18: Can string together with a 55m rope. The 5.9 is about two moves and the next pitch (#18) is A1.

Pitch #19: Lead up and right, then wander to belay tree. Gets real wet if there is a storm.


Info provided by: Eric Coomer, Greg Byrne and others.